A century ago, oilman Clayton Glenville Dorn created a bucolic retreat for his family in northwest Pennsylvania on the edge of Allegheny National Forest. Five generations of Dorns grew up playing on the private 1,280-acre estate, and now you, too, can step back into the era of the great camps. The heart of Glendorn, a member of the exclusive Relais & Ch???teaux, is the Big House, made entirely of redwood and featuring a two-story sandstone fireplace. In fact, there are 41 working fireplaces at the resort, which accommodates 30 guests in four lodge rooms and 12 paneled cabins. Every room includes a jar of freshly baked cookies, refilled daily. Activities abound, including exceptional fly fishing, but don't be surprised if you get transfixed flipping through the Dorn family albums, which offer a glimpse of a simpler time. Rooms from $495; 800-843-8568.