My daughter, Ella, and I are still debating our most bizarre moment: watching monkeys jump down from trees and steal food from our table, riding horseback and encountering a pack of rhinos, or having our flight delayed due to giraffes on the runway. I suspect we will go back and forth forever without settling it. And that is precisely why I took my daughter to Africa.
When Ella turned 10, a warning light went on inside me. It was like seeing the odometer in my Volvo click over to 100,000 -- I sensed that I'd best pay extra attention to ensure a smooth road ahead. My daughter and I have always been close; we do everything together without a thought for old-fashioned father-daughter roles. But Ella's personal odometer is picking up speed, and before I got left in the dust I wanted the two of us to share one unforgettable adventure.
Last April Fool's Day, I told Ella I was taking her on a weeklong safari in South Africa in July, and as I intended, she did not believe me. But with my wife's selfless blessing and a deal with Ella's three little brothers that they will each get their very own "airplane trip," we were on our way.
Given the 9-hour time difference between South Africa and our Northern California home, and the 15-hour flight from Atlanta to Johannesburg, I decided we'd spend two days relaxing and acclimating at the gorgeous Westcliff Hotel, set on a hillside overlooking the city. At dinner the first night, Ella gamely sampled my loin of springbok (venison). Before our trip was over, we would add ox tail, guinea fowl stew, smoked ostrich, and impala chops to our list of delicacies.
When researching safari lodges, I had three main criteria: kid-friendly facilities, comfortable accommodations, and plentiful and diverse wildlife. Conservation Corporation Africa delivered on all counts: We booked four nights at its Ngala Private Game Reserve, followed by two nights at Bongani Mountain Lodge.
Ngala means "lion" in Shangaan, the predominant native tongue spoken in the open, rolling bush known as the central Lowveld. The only private game reserve inside the massive Kruger National Park, Ngala is aptly named: On our first game drive, Ella and I got up close and personal with a pride of six lions. Her look of pure wonder at being spitting distance from the King of the Jungle was thrilling.
And so it began. Each day, guests hopped in open-air Land Rovers for early-morning and late-afternoon drives, which lasted three to four hours with a stop for drinks at daybreak and sundown. On that first drive, our ranger and tracker scouted out four of Africa's "Big Five": the lion, elephant, rhino, buffalo, and leopard. The only one we missed was the leopard -- which we found stalking impala at sunup the next morning.
The skies are bigger in Africa, the sunsets seem to stretch to the edge of space, and the colors are completely different from what we see at home. Ella and I were dazzled by the birds, especially the starling whose indigo feathers sparkled when glanced by the sun. We were sorry to have missed plucking succulent fruit from Marula trees and seeing leopard orchids in bloom; however, visiting during the temperate, leafless winter months offers better game viewing as well as more-affordable low season rates.